By the stadium in Gulu on a Sunday afternoon.
Kids sitting on an anthill watching a futbol game at the PTC across from my home.
Health Alert - Uganda's nurse with a baby from the PMTCT program during a follow-up.
Ugandan pride on my right ankle.Thursday, May 29, 2008
scenes around gulu
By the stadium in Gulu on a Sunday afternoon.Kids sitting on an anthill watching a futbol game at the PTC across from my home. Health Alert - Uganda's nurse with a baby from the PMTCT program during a follow-up. Ugandan pride on my right ankle.
due time: tb/hiv
I woke up this morning to a much anticipated phone call from Greg, before putting on my towel and bringing my green basin outside to prepare my bath. The meeting was supposed to start at 9:00AM, and I planned to catch a boda around 8:15AM, with my expected arrival at HAU somewhere around 8:30AM. It was 7:30AM when I stepped out to say an “icho mabe” to Janet, only to find that David was just now boiling water for his morning bath. After he finished, I began to alternate between pouring cold and hot water into my basin, adjusting the temperature until I was satisfied. The instant I placed the kettle back on the charcoal, one of the new university students bypassed me in his towel with basin in hand, making a hurried beeline towards the shower-place. (Two university guys arrived just last night to rent out Edgar and Achola’s room.) After all the delay, I was ready to leave at 8:15AM, but was guilted into breakfast by Beatrice’s nudging smile: Fried eggs with green pepper, and Mukwono Tea sweetened with raw sugar. It was 8:30AM when I started walking down the road, hoping to flag down a boda. The rain was fierce last night in a refreshing sense, and the conditions of the road provided unquestionable evidence of the torrential downpour. I hop-scotched and zig-zagged my way down to avoid the puddles and slippery patches. On two occasions, I miscalculated my steps and found my Ecco sandals sliding beneath the quick-sand mud. Around 9AM, a car labeled “Terra Renaissance” stopped alongside me, asking me if I wanted a lift. I obliged, and jumped in the back seat with my toes dripping. The woman driving was the Director of Terra Renaissance, a Japan-based organization working with child mothers in Gulu, providing them with counseling and avenues for microfinance opportunities. I arrived at HAU around 9:15, sending apologies all around until I figured out that Dr. Edson, the TB Focal Person at NUMAT, had not yet arrived. While dialing his number on the office phone, I breathed a sigh of relief and was happy to be running on, as Tabo calls it, “African time”.
WORK:
Dr. Edson arrived in an oversized maroon van at 9:30AM with a surprise guest, Mr. Opwonya, the TB/Leprosy focal person for the District of Health in Gulu. We walked to the back together, finding 8 CVC’s and 3 staff members sitting in a circle underneath the tarp. Francis, HAU’s Director, came out to say a quick hello before rushing back inside to finish preparing his presentation for Save the Children. I introduced the two visitors, and facilitated the meeting. The reception from the CVC’s was more than I could ever have hoped for. While Dr. Edson was introducing TB in terms of its relevance to HIV/AIDS, I scanned the faces of the CVC’s, seeing with great gratification that they were all nodding in agreement, furrowing their brows in concern every so often at what they were being told. Yes, they had heard about TB before, and had even suffered from it themselves in the past, but Dr. Edson provided a macroscopic approach to TB/HIV which sparked a renewed interest. He explored the statistics – TB is the cause of death in close to a third of all those with HIV/AIDS, TB causes 2 million deaths/year, Uganda is among the 22 countries that contribute to more than 80% of the world’s TB burden, a little more than 50% of TB patients are HIV positive, etc. It was imperative that these CVC’s understood the importance of TB/HIV collaboration, and that the opportunistic infections, not HIV itself, is the cause of death in those who are HIV positive. Mr. Opwonya described HIV/AIDS as being a Masters of Ceremony, inviting everyone, aka the OI’s, to come and join in the festivities. They underlined the importance of treatment adherence, and gave an anecdote about a university student who had a severe case of XDR-TB in Gulu, just last year. All 5 of the different TB drugs available in Uganda could not combat the TB germ sample given by the patient. What’s worse is the fact that the boy’s XDR strain could have been transmitted already to who knows how many. Gulu is said to have the highest prevalence of HIV/AIDS in all of Uganda at an estimated 8.2 – 11%, compared to the national HIV/AIDS prevalence of 6.4%. TB cases are surely numerous in Gulu because it is dominated by IDP Camps and because of the escalated HIV/AIDS prevalence. According to Opwonya and Dr. Edson, there are no community-based organizations existing in Northern Uganda at the moment with an active TB CB-DOTS program in place. There are those who practice CB-DOTS in theory, and so it must be emphasized that Health Alert – Uganda would quite possibly be the first to implement TB into its HIV/AIDS programs within Gulu, and perhaps, within all of Northern Uganda.
The CVC’s asked so many insightful questions, and there are plans being made to arrange an all-day training for the 65 CVC’s of HAU on TB/HIV collaboration in the near future. Sadly, I may not be in Gulu when the trainings are to take place, but there is comfort in knowing that the District of Health, NUMAT, and Health Alert – Uganda have successfully joined hands in combating TB/HIV. Because Uganda’s Ministry of Health accepted WHO’s 2006 Interim Policy on Collaborative TB/HIV Activities, all hospitals and organizations are supposed to address HIV/TB together. Though it is a government mandate, the community still does not feel the effects or see results of the policy. Hopefully, Health Alert – Uganda can be a pioneer in TB/HIV collaborative activities, and spur other CBO’s to adopt the same approach.
WORK:
Dr. Edson arrived in an oversized maroon van at 9:30AM with a surprise guest, Mr. Opwonya, the TB/Leprosy focal person for the District of Health in Gulu. We walked to the back together, finding 8 CVC’s and 3 staff members sitting in a circle underneath the tarp. Francis, HAU’s Director, came out to say a quick hello before rushing back inside to finish preparing his presentation for Save the Children. I introduced the two visitors, and facilitated the meeting. The reception from the CVC’s was more than I could ever have hoped for. While Dr. Edson was introducing TB in terms of its relevance to HIV/AIDS, I scanned the faces of the CVC’s, seeing with great gratification that they were all nodding in agreement, furrowing their brows in concern every so often at what they were being told. Yes, they had heard about TB before, and had even suffered from it themselves in the past, but Dr. Edson provided a macroscopic approach to TB/HIV which sparked a renewed interest. He explored the statistics – TB is the cause of death in close to a third of all those with HIV/AIDS, TB causes 2 million deaths/year, Uganda is among the 22 countries that contribute to more than 80% of the world’s TB burden, a little more than 50% of TB patients are HIV positive, etc. It was imperative that these CVC’s understood the importance of TB/HIV collaboration, and that the opportunistic infections, not HIV itself, is the cause of death in those who are HIV positive. Mr. Opwonya described HIV/AIDS as being a Masters of Ceremony, inviting everyone, aka the OI’s, to come and join in the festivities. They underlined the importance of treatment adherence, and gave an anecdote about a university student who had a severe case of XDR-TB in Gulu, just last year. All 5 of the different TB drugs available in Uganda could not combat the TB germ sample given by the patient. What’s worse is the fact that the boy’s XDR strain could have been transmitted already to who knows how many. Gulu is said to have the highest prevalence of HIV/AIDS in all of Uganda at an estimated 8.2 – 11%, compared to the national HIV/AIDS prevalence of 6.4%. TB cases are surely numerous in Gulu because it is dominated by IDP Camps and because of the escalated HIV/AIDS prevalence. According to Opwonya and Dr. Edson, there are no community-based organizations existing in Northern Uganda at the moment with an active TB CB-DOTS program in place. There are those who practice CB-DOTS in theory, and so it must be emphasized that Health Alert – Uganda would quite possibly be the first to implement TB into its HIV/AIDS programs within Gulu, and perhaps, within all of Northern Uganda.
The CVC’s asked so many insightful questions, and there are plans being made to arrange an all-day training for the 65 CVC’s of HAU on TB/HIV collaboration in the near future. Sadly, I may not be in Gulu when the trainings are to take place, but there is comfort in knowing that the District of Health, NUMAT, and Health Alert – Uganda have successfully joined hands in combating TB/HIV. Because Uganda’s Ministry of Health accepted WHO’s 2006 Interim Policy on Collaborative TB/HIV Activities, all hospitals and organizations are supposed to address HIV/TB together. Though it is a government mandate, the community still does not feel the effects or see results of the policy. Hopefully, Health Alert – Uganda can be a pioneer in TB/HIV collaborative activities, and spur other CBO’s to adopt the same approach.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
sunset in gulu
I wish I could crop out the metal post on the side, but this computer is refusing all requests to budge. This is sunset in Gulu, as seen from my home.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
hau moving forward
I could feel the chill of the morning slowly creep into my bones when I was stirred awake by the sounds of Janet preparing a hot bath for her new-born anyaka, her baby girl. I lay in bed for close to 15 minutes ticking off what was planned on the agenda for today, and wishing a little that my Nokia was lying, that it wasn’t 6:30AM yet, and that my alarm clock had fortunately misfired leaving me with a good hour to remain a tangled, tired lump. One oomph, sigh, and roll later, I was up on my feet, and out the door. Prosie and I fetched water this morning from the bar hole at the PTC but found it to be brown and full of sediment. For my bath, I ended up boiling some rain water we had collected last night. It’s always a struggle to carry my basin over to the place where I bathe, but I think my weak arms are slowly getting accustomed. David, Beatrice and I sat on a mat outside in the middle of the compound to enjoy our breakfast: fried eggs with green pepper, Mukuno tea (from the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda), bananas, and some fresh mangos Janet’s mother had picked earlier this morning from her home. It wasn’t even 8AM and yet our conversation quickly became heavy with topics of Obama, racism in America, and their personal perceptions of slavery.
A fleeting honk told us that Ben from Health Alert had come to pick up David and me, and so I grabbed my Duke Energy bag, kissed Beatrice goodbye, and rushed out to the white, four-door truck which had both Save the Children and Health Alert’s logos stamped proudly on the passenger side. While zooming through the dirt road towards town, I rolled the window all the way down for a makeshift hair-dryer, and kept my eyes steady on the mango trees, uniformed school children, maize fields, MTN stands, lines of dripping laundry, and budding eucalyptus trees on the horizon. After being dropped at NUMAT, I said hello to all the familiar faces and was brought upstairs to meet Dr. Edson, NUMAT’s TB Focal person. He was an unassuming man who reminded me of a physics professor – absent-minded, unmistakably brilliant, easily distracted, and unable to hold proper eye contact. I found myself making large sweeping movements during our meeting, just to ensure he was completely focused on the conversation. Sweet success. He agreed to come to HAU this Thursday morning for a quick introductory workshop on why TB/HIV collaborative activities are important. Not ONLY that, but he also agreed to hold two 1-day trainings (which NUMAT will sponsor!) for the CVC’s and staff of Health Alert – Uganda to educate them on how to integrate TB into their already existing CB-DOTS program. Everything worked out so well – at this point in time, there is agreement and approval from all sides involved: Health Alert – Uganda, Gulu District of Health, and NUMAT. Dr. Edson told me that this is the first time a CBO has approached him with an interest in TB; Health Alert – Uganda is now recognized as a priority. I couldn’t ask for more.
While sitting sideways on the boda with my ankles crossed, leaning to the side with my left hand resting on the small bar at the back, I found myself in a perfect position to wave “hi” to the children who were screaming “muno!” and chasing after me barefooted. My long fuchsia skirt billowed behind me on the way through town to HAU, and I made quite an effort to maintain all decency and avoid a Marilyn – ‘oops’ moment. Seven of the HAU staff and I went out to lunch at Lindon Guest House this afternoon around 1PM. There was an uproar when I told them about my dare from Janet and the family to eat a white ant (which is a bit like a dragonfly), claiming that they’d send me a box of white ants for my birthday and for Christmas. Apparently, we’re all going out the night before I leave so we can enjoy the local delicacy together at one time. I couldn’t help but roll a film clip of “Hakuna Matata” from the Lion King in my head amid the laughter – everyone slowly metamorphosed into a Timon and Pumba, encouraging me to feast on juicy bugs and insects. Locusts, grasshoppers, and crickets are delicious apparently, but cockroaches are forever forbidden.
Exactly 14 days left in Uganda.
A fleeting honk told us that Ben from Health Alert had come to pick up David and me, and so I grabbed my Duke Energy bag, kissed Beatrice goodbye, and rushed out to the white, four-door truck which had both Save the Children and Health Alert’s logos stamped proudly on the passenger side. While zooming through the dirt road towards town, I rolled the window all the way down for a makeshift hair-dryer, and kept my eyes steady on the mango trees, uniformed school children, maize fields, MTN stands, lines of dripping laundry, and budding eucalyptus trees on the horizon. After being dropped at NUMAT, I said hello to all the familiar faces and was brought upstairs to meet Dr. Edson, NUMAT’s TB Focal person. He was an unassuming man who reminded me of a physics professor – absent-minded, unmistakably brilliant, easily distracted, and unable to hold proper eye contact. I found myself making large sweeping movements during our meeting, just to ensure he was completely focused on the conversation. Sweet success. He agreed to come to HAU this Thursday morning for a quick introductory workshop on why TB/HIV collaborative activities are important. Not ONLY that, but he also agreed to hold two 1-day trainings (which NUMAT will sponsor!) for the CVC’s and staff of Health Alert – Uganda to educate them on how to integrate TB into their already existing CB-DOTS program. Everything worked out so well – at this point in time, there is agreement and approval from all sides involved: Health Alert – Uganda, Gulu District of Health, and NUMAT. Dr. Edson told me that this is the first time a CBO has approached him with an interest in TB; Health Alert – Uganda is now recognized as a priority. I couldn’t ask for more.
While sitting sideways on the boda with my ankles crossed, leaning to the side with my left hand resting on the small bar at the back, I found myself in a perfect position to wave “hi” to the children who were screaming “muno!” and chasing after me barefooted. My long fuchsia skirt billowed behind me on the way through town to HAU, and I made quite an effort to maintain all decency and avoid a Marilyn – ‘oops’ moment. Seven of the HAU staff and I went out to lunch at Lindon Guest House this afternoon around 1PM. There was an uproar when I told them about my dare from Janet and the family to eat a white ant (which is a bit like a dragonfly), claiming that they’d send me a box of white ants for my birthday and for Christmas. Apparently, we’re all going out the night before I leave so we can enjoy the local delicacy together at one time. I couldn’t help but roll a film clip of “Hakuna Matata” from the Lion King in my head amid the laughter – everyone slowly metamorphosed into a Timon and Pumba, encouraging me to feast on juicy bugs and insects. Locusts, grasshoppers, and crickets are delicious apparently, but cockroaches are forever forbidden.
Exactly 14 days left in Uganda.
Monday, May 26, 2008
Empty Nest
Regrettably, I woke up this morning a bit late, around 7AM. Beatrice was knocking on my metal, pad-locked door, whispering that my "friends" were now leaving. I shouted a short response and almost tore my mosquito net down while I was rushing out of bed to pull on some decent attire before saying hello to the new day. I stumbled out of my room half-blind, and saw three bodas piled up with bags and suitcases I helped pack the night before. Achola and Edgar were leaving for the bus to Kampala, because their summer holidays are over. I had threatened before to lock them inside my room because I would miss them so badly when they left me, and so I threw my arms around them this morning and gave them each a peck on the cheek before the bodas kicked up their engines and left dust and smoke in their wake. Wednesday, Prosie is leaving me for education training after grabbing dinner together in town at Mazuke with some friends. All that is left is Beatrice and David, and Janet. But, good news! Janet gave birth to a baby girl, Joan Bianca Wambuga, 3.4kg. I couldn't be more proud. She was screaming bloody murder yesterday morning during her bath, but she somehow retained her cuteness throughout. I couldn't help but take some snaps of Janet's mom splashing the baby with water. I'm now "one of those" - the ones who encourage embarassing photos like "the first bath".
Saturday, I went to town with Beatrice. The boda driver was literally sitting on my lap while steering the motorbike, and Beatrice sandwiched me in because she was sitting sideways due to the long skirt she was wearing. I got my bag mended somewhere in the market square, bought some silk fabric, and then went for a consultation to have a dress made for myself by a local tailor. I spent the entire day at the Acholi Inn with the CVAP Canadian University Students, after which we headed out to Havana Pub and Corner Cafe to enjoy a couple Nile Specials. That night was not so good... but I think it's fair to leave details lacking at this point in time.
Work:
I began walking down towards Gulu University after my bath this morning, hoping to catch a boda on my way to work. A 13 year old girl in a striped pink and white shirt was pedaling alongside me on her bike, striking up a friendly conversation. Barbara offered to carry me on her bike, and so I hopped on for a good half mile or so before a boda came zooming past. This is the second time I've been offered a bike ride from a complete stranger - could you ever find that in America?
Today, I came into Health Alert - Uganda with the clear intentions of updating Francis on what I had been doing, and things I was envisioning for GlobeMed - UNC's partnership with HAU. He has approved of my idea to hold a workshop for the CVC's, so I'm going to the District office and NUMAT again tomorrow to verify that they are available this Friday morning for a quick training to introduce the TB component to supplement the manual I created last week. Tomorrow, we're sitting down to set out a budget, so that I leave with a concrete idea of what Health Alert - Uganda needs. It is amazing that they are the only organization supplying replacement feeding in all of Northern Uganda. After consultations with board and staff members, I have decided that GlobeMed - UNC will invest in their PMTCT program. Other ideas come in forms of organizational capacity and transport support, but those will surely follow in the future. This week will also be the time for me to scout some nearby apartments so that I can start setting up some lodging and accomodations for future GlobeMed - UNC fellows I hope to send in the following summers. This afternoon, I was sporadically elected as chairperson for the Peer Educators Meeting. At least 18 young HIV positive adolescents gather to form this Young Peer Support Club, where they provide mentorship for the younger children enrolled in HAU, as well as forming a drama and dance group to spread HIV/AIDS advocacy, positive prevention strategies, as well as using it as a means for HAU's anti-stigma campaign. Elections were done by ballot, and discussions were made about the goals, operations, and activities of the club. I'll be working with them on their code of conduct later this week, as well.
Now:
Electricity just cut out, and I waited about 10 minutes for the generator to start whirring again. It's getting darker out, and I'm craving a pork dish from Abola Lepok. I'm trying to decide what to do with my last weekend in Uganda - either to stay in Gulu up to the day I'm supposed to fly out of Entebbe, or go to Kampala to travel with Red Chili to Murchison Falls. I met the national coordinator of Uganda Young Positives today, and he graciously offered his guest house to me for the nights I would need to stay in Kampala, surprisingly free of charge.
Anywho, my parched throat is craving a Mirinda Pineapple now, and I'm looking forward to the refreshing boda ride home.
The lightning and thunder has been insane as of late, but I'm getting excited now that the moon has disappeared and the stars can come back out again. It's amazing how much I feel at home in Gulu, now.
Saturday, I went to town with Beatrice. The boda driver was literally sitting on my lap while steering the motorbike, and Beatrice sandwiched me in because she was sitting sideways due to the long skirt she was wearing. I got my bag mended somewhere in the market square, bought some silk fabric, and then went for a consultation to have a dress made for myself by a local tailor. I spent the entire day at the Acholi Inn with the CVAP Canadian University Students, after which we headed out to Havana Pub and Corner Cafe to enjoy a couple Nile Specials. That night was not so good... but I think it's fair to leave details lacking at this point in time.
Work:
I began walking down towards Gulu University after my bath this morning, hoping to catch a boda on my way to work. A 13 year old girl in a striped pink and white shirt was pedaling alongside me on her bike, striking up a friendly conversation. Barbara offered to carry me on her bike, and so I hopped on for a good half mile or so before a boda came zooming past. This is the second time I've been offered a bike ride from a complete stranger - could you ever find that in America?
Today, I came into Health Alert - Uganda with the clear intentions of updating Francis on what I had been doing, and things I was envisioning for GlobeMed - UNC's partnership with HAU. He has approved of my idea to hold a workshop for the CVC's, so I'm going to the District office and NUMAT again tomorrow to verify that they are available this Friday morning for a quick training to introduce the TB component to supplement the manual I created last week. Tomorrow, we're sitting down to set out a budget, so that I leave with a concrete idea of what Health Alert - Uganda needs. It is amazing that they are the only organization supplying replacement feeding in all of Northern Uganda. After consultations with board and staff members, I have decided that GlobeMed - UNC will invest in their PMTCT program. Other ideas come in forms of organizational capacity and transport support, but those will surely follow in the future. This week will also be the time for me to scout some nearby apartments so that I can start setting up some lodging and accomodations for future GlobeMed - UNC fellows I hope to send in the following summers. This afternoon, I was sporadically elected as chairperson for the Peer Educators Meeting. At least 18 young HIV positive adolescents gather to form this Young Peer Support Club, where they provide mentorship for the younger children enrolled in HAU, as well as forming a drama and dance group to spread HIV/AIDS advocacy, positive prevention strategies, as well as using it as a means for HAU's anti-stigma campaign. Elections were done by ballot, and discussions were made about the goals, operations, and activities of the club. I'll be working with them on their code of conduct later this week, as well.
Now:
Electricity just cut out, and I waited about 10 minutes for the generator to start whirring again. It's getting darker out, and I'm craving a pork dish from Abola Lepok. I'm trying to decide what to do with my last weekend in Uganda - either to stay in Gulu up to the day I'm supposed to fly out of Entebbe, or go to Kampala to travel with Red Chili to Murchison Falls. I met the national coordinator of Uganda Young Positives today, and he graciously offered his guest house to me for the nights I would need to stay in Kampala, surprisingly free of charge.
Anywho, my parched throat is craving a Mirinda Pineapple now, and I'm looking forward to the refreshing boda ride home.
The lightning and thunder has been insane as of late, but I'm getting excited now that the moon has disappeared and the stars can come back out again. It's amazing how much I feel at home in Gulu, now.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
mancester
Red AIG jerseys throughout Gulu are celebrating. Last night was the big Champions League game, and everyone was counting down until 9:30PM. I got back while there was still some daylight left last night, and went to the well to go pump water with Prosie, marveling at her grace and ability in balancing the 20L jerrican on the top of her head, with only one hand supporting the weight. Instead of going back home, I sat out on the soccer field surrounded by small children cartwheeling and rolling around me. Calvin ended up showing off his Ugandan tan-lines and soccer skills and joined in on a futbol game with the kids in the area. Mind you, none of the kids were over the age of 12 - most were around 6 or 7 and Calvin still got schooled, pouring perspiration after just 20 minutes of trying to keep up with the rest of the boys. Around 9PM, Calvin, Janet, Edgar, some boys from the surrounding village, and myself, all headed down the pitch-dark road to the PTC (Primary Teacher's College) to the make-shift movie theater a.k.a. the dining hall with gathered wooden chairs and a small tv screen in the front of the room held up by 2 adjoining chairs. Over 100 people crowded into the dining hall, sitting on the edges of the seat and roaring when Chelsea made its first goal. As soon as the ball hit the net, everyone was up out of their seats, hands shaking over their heads. It was surreal to be sitting there with everyone. I'm glad I didn't head to town to watch the game in the bar. Sadly, I was so exhausted from the day and had to trek back home after half-time.
This morning, Janet was rushed to the hospital again on account of some labor pains. I hope I come home tonight to a baby girl! I had a meeting with the Gulu District TB/Leprosy Focal Person today, and spoke about introducing a TB component into the CB-DOTS program already implemented at Health Alert-Uganda. For the rest of the week, I'll be working on a TB manual for the CVC's (Community Volunteer Counselors). Next, I stopped by NUMAT's District of Health Office to chat with Dr. Vincent, the district head of NUMAT (Northern Uganda Malaria AIDS and TB), who has fast become a good friend of mine. I picked up some brochures and discussed the creation of a TB workshop for the CVC's and staff of Health Alert-Uganda. If I plan everything correctly and am able to coordinate between HAU, NUMAT, and the TB District office, I think everything will work out fine.
Today it was more follow-ups at people's homes in the villages and at Lacor Hospital. I enjoyed probably the best lunch I've had in Gulu thus far at Lacor Refreshments alone, and struck up a conversation with the stranger sitting next to me about Save the Children and the work it has done in Gulu. I had fish and chips, and a nice strawberry yogurt for dessert before heading back to HAU. The days seem to go be going by so slowly here, but I can't believe I'm already halfway done with my trip in Africa.
This morning, Janet was rushed to the hospital again on account of some labor pains. I hope I come home tonight to a baby girl! I had a meeting with the Gulu District TB/Leprosy Focal Person today, and spoke about introducing a TB component into the CB-DOTS program already implemented at Health Alert-Uganda. For the rest of the week, I'll be working on a TB manual for the CVC's (Community Volunteer Counselors). Next, I stopped by NUMAT's District of Health Office to chat with Dr. Vincent, the district head of NUMAT (Northern Uganda Malaria AIDS and TB), who has fast become a good friend of mine. I picked up some brochures and discussed the creation of a TB workshop for the CVC's and staff of Health Alert-Uganda. If I plan everything correctly and am able to coordinate between HAU, NUMAT, and the TB District office, I think everything will work out fine.
Today it was more follow-ups at people's homes in the villages and at Lacor Hospital. I enjoyed probably the best lunch I've had in Gulu thus far at Lacor Refreshments alone, and struck up a conversation with the stranger sitting next to me about Save the Children and the work it has done in Gulu. I had fish and chips, and a nice strawberry yogurt for dessert before heading back to HAU. The days seem to go be going by so slowly here, but I can't believe I'm already halfway done with my trip in Africa.
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
big brother
I guess it is impossible to document every single story I hear while in Gulu. If I continue the last post, it could go on for ages.
It’s 11AM in Gulu, and I’m sitting here in the office of Health Alert Uganda on a cushy couch with my laptop placed upon my lap, with the window open to my right and a fan whirring directly in front of my face on my left. Luckily, Health Alert keeps their own generator running, so I’m able to power up and Microsoft Word for as long as I please.
Last weekend, I visited Calvin in Jinja, which is located in southern Uganda – about a 2 hour matatu (taxi bus) ride from Kampala. After my last blog, I walked out of Kool City Internet Café, bought some MTN airtime, and asked Moses to pick me from Pioneer Mall. For more than an hour, I sat on the ledge of a window at a busy intersection which strikingly resembled New York City with the shaded, briefcase carrying men, and the business women in pencil skirts and heels complete with French pedicures. The scene was vastly different from Gulu; I could see no clouds, and there were no rags in sight. Everyone was laughing and moving so quickly, in great contrast to those in Gulu who seem to take their time as they walk down the dusty roads. The dust of Gulu was replaced by the smoke and smog of Kampala – engine exhaust soon began to circulate in my lungs, breathing in fumes instead of oxygen and exhaling black smoke instead of carbon dioxide. As I sat there watching the people move quickly past, I missed Gulu and desired a gulp of fresh air.
After a confusing exchange on my battered Nokia phone with Moses, I found myself wandering around a busy street near the large Crane Bank, scanning over the hundreds for Moses’ familiar face. Each time I stuck one toe out into the road lane, I feared that I would be swept up by a boda, pushed aside by a hurried pedestrian, or knocked to unconsciousness by an oncoming truck. The traffic was deafening as I walked along the curb of the road, desperately looking for Moses, and trying to avoid the boda’s calls and hello’s. Suddenly, a woman in a brown dress took hold of my hand, asking me quickly if I was looking for someone named Moses after which I gave a silent, grateful nod. She whisked me to the opposite side of the street, and soon threw me into a truck where I stared up and saw Moses’ face break into a smile. He introduced me to the mysterious woman who had brought me to safety – she was Agnus, his sister. From there, we drove recklessly in the direction of his home (almost killing 2 chickens, 3 goats, and 1 stubborn cow), and stopped at Agenda, a restaurant where I filled up on some Fanta, grilled chicken, and chips (French fries).
We chatted about Agnus’ opportunity to find a position as a nurse in America, and also highlighted the latest developments in the U.S. election (which plenty of people in Uganda are so keen to talk about). Soon, I met up with Calvin where we boarded a bus to Jinja. Calvin is staying with Father Picavet, a well-known and deeply admired Catholic priest who has been living in Jinja since 1970. The road his house is located on is even named after him. Jinja was so different from both Gulu and Kampala – paved roads, fresh air, hills, greenery, and houses larger than mine. We had tea with Father Picavet, and soon went to bed.
Last Saturday, we met our boda at 8:30AM, and were driven out to the Nile, where Adrift, an international rafting company, was located. The guides all seemed to have amazing stories about how they ended up with Adrift… one of the training guides was a 23-year old, blue-eyed Australian who is spending a year backpacking through Africa, while picking up random jobs (i.e. being a raft guide, doing carpentry work, waiting tables, etc). After the group of 20 from Kampala arrived, we all picked out a life jacket, paddle, helmet, and banana for energy, then set off down 100 steep slippery stairs to where our rafts were waiting. Calvin decided for us to go on the “Wild” raft (the other two were “Mild” and “Medium”), and so that is how I ended up being the only girl in our group of 9. While we were paddling, we passed by several women and children bathing, and washing clothes. We even saw As we approached Big Brother, a Grade Five rapid, we could hear the deafening sounds of the falls hitting the water underneath. 85% of the Nile flows through Big Brother. When we were going down the rapid, I held on for dear life but was knocked out by a forceful wave, and soon found my legs and elbows tangled, hoping that I would soon pop up to safety. A kayaker grabbed me, and ferried me back to the raft. A half hour later, we stopped at an island for lunch which consisted of avocado, ham, onion, and cheese sandwiches and fresh pineapple. We rafted from 10AM until close to 6PM, pausing during calm waters to jump off the raft to have a nice swim in the Nile. Around 4, after enjoying a nice lollipop during a flat stretch, angry clouds began to close in around us, though the raft remained in a spot of sunlight. For half an hour, it seemed as if the rain was chasing us, finally catching up to us during the last leg of our journey. At the end, I walked up the slope barefoot, and emerged muddy and happy to know a cold Nile Special Premium Lager was waiting for me at the top of the hill. I rode back in the front of the truck with Richard, or “Landy” and had a discussion with him about when the right age for marriage is, and prospects of me returning to Jinja for what he promised would be free accommodation and free rafting in case I came back to Adrift.
That night, Calvin and I splurged and enjoyed a steak at 2Friends, and went back home to rest for the night. In the morning, we accompanied Father Picavet to a small town called Buyala where he preaches at a local church once a month. Calvin and I sat in the back next to a young boy who stared at us with open eyes throughout the duration of the service. I could not understand the majority of the worship because it was spoken in Luganda, and so my attention was easily diverted to the purple-magenta flowers poking through the windows which gave interrupted light into the small, crowded church. I just remember rising and sitting, standing and praying, not know what was going on for over an hour and a half. Baptisms took especially long, after which the Sunday school children danced and sang for Calvin and I, welcoming us as visitors… “We will never, never, never forget you”. After a mini-photo shoot out front, Father Picavet drove us out to his “holiday house” which overlooks the Nile and contains acres of forests. The view was gorgeous, and his house had a porch and even a small hut and table out on the ledge of the hill. We enjoyed some tea and cookies while appreciating the unrivaled scenery, and even caught sight of a couple of rafters floating downstream. I spent the rest of the day in P.I.L. Handicraft shop, and picked out several things for friends and family, and a couple of things for myself as well. We splurged again (but this time on a Thaali plate from an Indian restaurant), then came back to sleep.
The ride from Kampala to Gulu was fairly quick and smooth, nothing of interest except for some cassava and meat skewers bought along the way. I returned home angry with Janet for not producing a baby yet – we’ve joked around that if it were a girl, she would be named Bianca Amari. Amari means Love.
Work:
I carried out more than 15 interviews last week, with each interview lasting somewhere between 45 minutes to an hour. It got so late last Thursday during our last couple interviews that a candle was lit so that I could continue taking notes on my rat-a-tat notebook. When I had finished my interview with one TB positive patient, I said my Apoyo Matek’s and goodbye’s before she remained sitting there silent before piping up with a question while still keeping her eyes on the floor in front of her, her fingers playing with the tattered lacy fringe on her green and blue-flowered dress. She directed the question to me, and James translated. She told me that she had been abandoned by her family and all of her friends, left alone in isolation because of her status of also being HIV positive. The stigma drove them away from her, and she is left with her children who are HIV negative and sometimes treat her with disregard because of her returning TB and weak health driven by the unforgivable virus. She told me that she knows she will die very soon, and fears what will happen to her children. She asked me, what should she do with her children if she dies tomorrow, or the next week, or the next month? My mind was in shock at the question… how can I address issues of mortality and care-taking when I am a university student? It was only fair of her to ask me this question when my interview demanded so much strength and memory from her. I told her about Health Alert, and also recommended S.O.S., which is a respectable orphanage in town. After she shook my hand and thanked me, she walked out the door. As soon as I saw the blue edges disappear from the door frame, I turned to my left and began to cry.
After my interviews were done for the day, I thanked the local chairwoman who had made the appointments for me, and saw that she was feeding her baby milk from a bottle. After further investigation, I found out that she had been through Health Alert’s PMTCT program, and delivered an HIV- baby, which is why she was not breast-feeding. She also told me that one of the people who had agreed to be interviewed by me long before I stepped foot in Gulu, had died the past week from TB. My days never fail to contain some dose of sadness, yet it is only expected in these surroundings.
Yesterday, I went to Parabongo IDP Camp with 2 Health Alert Counselors and 2 Concordia students. Over a hundred men, women, and children sat down in front of us underneath the shade of a mango tree, and I shakily introduced myself with an “Orii Mabe” and “Kopongo”. A baby behind me caught my eye from the very beginning, and I betrayed myself by constantly looking over my shoulder to see where the baby was. He had the most beautiful smile. At one point, my heart broke because I saw some babies in a nearby corner playing in the dirt, occasionally sticking a handful of dirt into their mouths and swallowing. I saw another baby that day eating rocks. Each patient I have spoken to has listed food support and malnutrition as their biggest challenge in obtaining TB services. Clearly, nutrition, poverty, and healthcare go hand-in-hand. It is impossible to fix one without the other, or at least without considering how the others will be affected. Going out to the field certainly is depressing when thoughts of inadequacy are all I can think about. Inadequate support, inadequate capacity, inadequate funding. How can these problems be solved in one fell swoop?
At the end of my day yesterday, I finished the Partnership Evaluation Form which Francis helped me fill out (The Director and Program Coordinator of Health Alert), and rushed to Nile Computers Limited to send it off. Calvin randomly walked in, and we went together after we were finished to Maq Foods to enjoy some samosas before catching a boda back home.
It’s 11AM in Gulu, and I’m sitting here in the office of Health Alert Uganda on a cushy couch with my laptop placed upon my lap, with the window open to my right and a fan whirring directly in front of my face on my left. Luckily, Health Alert keeps their own generator running, so I’m able to power up and Microsoft Word for as long as I please.
Last weekend, I visited Calvin in Jinja, which is located in southern Uganda – about a 2 hour matatu (taxi bus) ride from Kampala. After my last blog, I walked out of Kool City Internet Café, bought some MTN airtime, and asked Moses to pick me from Pioneer Mall. For more than an hour, I sat on the ledge of a window at a busy intersection which strikingly resembled New York City with the shaded, briefcase carrying men, and the business women in pencil skirts and heels complete with French pedicures. The scene was vastly different from Gulu; I could see no clouds, and there were no rags in sight. Everyone was laughing and moving so quickly, in great contrast to those in Gulu who seem to take their time as they walk down the dusty roads. The dust of Gulu was replaced by the smoke and smog of Kampala – engine exhaust soon began to circulate in my lungs, breathing in fumes instead of oxygen and exhaling black smoke instead of carbon dioxide. As I sat there watching the people move quickly past, I missed Gulu and desired a gulp of fresh air.
After a confusing exchange on my battered Nokia phone with Moses, I found myself wandering around a busy street near the large Crane Bank, scanning over the hundreds for Moses’ familiar face. Each time I stuck one toe out into the road lane, I feared that I would be swept up by a boda, pushed aside by a hurried pedestrian, or knocked to unconsciousness by an oncoming truck. The traffic was deafening as I walked along the curb of the road, desperately looking for Moses, and trying to avoid the boda’s calls and hello’s. Suddenly, a woman in a brown dress took hold of my hand, asking me quickly if I was looking for someone named Moses after which I gave a silent, grateful nod. She whisked me to the opposite side of the street, and soon threw me into a truck where I stared up and saw Moses’ face break into a smile. He introduced me to the mysterious woman who had brought me to safety – she was Agnus, his sister. From there, we drove recklessly in the direction of his home (almost killing 2 chickens, 3 goats, and 1 stubborn cow), and stopped at Agenda, a restaurant where I filled up on some Fanta, grilled chicken, and chips (French fries).
We chatted about Agnus’ opportunity to find a position as a nurse in America, and also highlighted the latest developments in the U.S. election (which plenty of people in Uganda are so keen to talk about). Soon, I met up with Calvin where we boarded a bus to Jinja. Calvin is staying with Father Picavet, a well-known and deeply admired Catholic priest who has been living in Jinja since 1970. The road his house is located on is even named after him. Jinja was so different from both Gulu and Kampala – paved roads, fresh air, hills, greenery, and houses larger than mine. We had tea with Father Picavet, and soon went to bed.
Last Saturday, we met our boda at 8:30AM, and were driven out to the Nile, where Adrift, an international rafting company, was located. The guides all seemed to have amazing stories about how they ended up with Adrift… one of the training guides was a 23-year old, blue-eyed Australian who is spending a year backpacking through Africa, while picking up random jobs (i.e. being a raft guide, doing carpentry work, waiting tables, etc). After the group of 20 from Kampala arrived, we all picked out a life jacket, paddle, helmet, and banana for energy, then set off down 100 steep slippery stairs to where our rafts were waiting. Calvin decided for us to go on the “Wild” raft (the other two were “Mild” and “Medium”), and so that is how I ended up being the only girl in our group of 9. While we were paddling, we passed by several women and children bathing, and washing clothes. We even saw As we approached Big Brother, a Grade Five rapid, we could hear the deafening sounds of the falls hitting the water underneath. 85% of the Nile flows through Big Brother. When we were going down the rapid, I held on for dear life but was knocked out by a forceful wave, and soon found my legs and elbows tangled, hoping that I would soon pop up to safety. A kayaker grabbed me, and ferried me back to the raft. A half hour later, we stopped at an island for lunch which consisted of avocado, ham, onion, and cheese sandwiches and fresh pineapple. We rafted from 10AM until close to 6PM, pausing during calm waters to jump off the raft to have a nice swim in the Nile. Around 4, after enjoying a nice lollipop during a flat stretch, angry clouds began to close in around us, though the raft remained in a spot of sunlight. For half an hour, it seemed as if the rain was chasing us, finally catching up to us during the last leg of our journey. At the end, I walked up the slope barefoot, and emerged muddy and happy to know a cold Nile Special Premium Lager was waiting for me at the top of the hill. I rode back in the front of the truck with Richard, or “Landy” and had a discussion with him about when the right age for marriage is, and prospects of me returning to Jinja for what he promised would be free accommodation and free rafting in case I came back to Adrift.
That night, Calvin and I splurged and enjoyed a steak at 2Friends, and went back home to rest for the night. In the morning, we accompanied Father Picavet to a small town called Buyala where he preaches at a local church once a month. Calvin and I sat in the back next to a young boy who stared at us with open eyes throughout the duration of the service. I could not understand the majority of the worship because it was spoken in Luganda, and so my attention was easily diverted to the purple-magenta flowers poking through the windows which gave interrupted light into the small, crowded church. I just remember rising and sitting, standing and praying, not know what was going on for over an hour and a half. Baptisms took especially long, after which the Sunday school children danced and sang for Calvin and I, welcoming us as visitors… “We will never, never, never forget you”. After a mini-photo shoot out front, Father Picavet drove us out to his “holiday house” which overlooks the Nile and contains acres of forests. The view was gorgeous, and his house had a porch and even a small hut and table out on the ledge of the hill. We enjoyed some tea and cookies while appreciating the unrivaled scenery, and even caught sight of a couple of rafters floating downstream. I spent the rest of the day in P.I.L. Handicraft shop, and picked out several things for friends and family, and a couple of things for myself as well. We splurged again (but this time on a Thaali plate from an Indian restaurant), then came back to sleep.
The ride from Kampala to Gulu was fairly quick and smooth, nothing of interest except for some cassava and meat skewers bought along the way. I returned home angry with Janet for not producing a baby yet – we’ve joked around that if it were a girl, she would be named Bianca Amari. Amari means Love.
Work:
I carried out more than 15 interviews last week, with each interview lasting somewhere between 45 minutes to an hour. It got so late last Thursday during our last couple interviews that a candle was lit so that I could continue taking notes on my rat-a-tat notebook. When I had finished my interview with one TB positive patient, I said my Apoyo Matek’s and goodbye’s before she remained sitting there silent before piping up with a question while still keeping her eyes on the floor in front of her, her fingers playing with the tattered lacy fringe on her green and blue-flowered dress. She directed the question to me, and James translated. She told me that she had been abandoned by her family and all of her friends, left alone in isolation because of her status of also being HIV positive. The stigma drove them away from her, and she is left with her children who are HIV negative and sometimes treat her with disregard because of her returning TB and weak health driven by the unforgivable virus. She told me that she knows she will die very soon, and fears what will happen to her children. She asked me, what should she do with her children if she dies tomorrow, or the next week, or the next month? My mind was in shock at the question… how can I address issues of mortality and care-taking when I am a university student? It was only fair of her to ask me this question when my interview demanded so much strength and memory from her. I told her about Health Alert, and also recommended S.O.S., which is a respectable orphanage in town. After she shook my hand and thanked me, she walked out the door. As soon as I saw the blue edges disappear from the door frame, I turned to my left and began to cry.
After my interviews were done for the day, I thanked the local chairwoman who had made the appointments for me, and saw that she was feeding her baby milk from a bottle. After further investigation, I found out that she had been through Health Alert’s PMTCT program, and delivered an HIV- baby, which is why she was not breast-feeding. She also told me that one of the people who had agreed to be interviewed by me long before I stepped foot in Gulu, had died the past week from TB. My days never fail to contain some dose of sadness, yet it is only expected in these surroundings.
Yesterday, I went to Parabongo IDP Camp with 2 Health Alert Counselors and 2 Concordia students. Over a hundred men, women, and children sat down in front of us underneath the shade of a mango tree, and I shakily introduced myself with an “Orii Mabe” and “Kopongo”. A baby behind me caught my eye from the very beginning, and I betrayed myself by constantly looking over my shoulder to see where the baby was. He had the most beautiful smile. At one point, my heart broke because I saw some babies in a nearby corner playing in the dirt, occasionally sticking a handful of dirt into their mouths and swallowing. I saw another baby that day eating rocks. Each patient I have spoken to has listed food support and malnutrition as their biggest challenge in obtaining TB services. Clearly, nutrition, poverty, and healthcare go hand-in-hand. It is impossible to fix one without the other, or at least without considering how the others will be affected. Going out to the field certainly is depressing when thoughts of inadequacy are all I can think about. Inadequate support, inadequate capacity, inadequate funding. How can these problems be solved in one fell swoop?
At the end of my day yesterday, I finished the Partnership Evaluation Form which Francis helped me fill out (The Director and Program Coordinator of Health Alert), and rushed to Nile Computers Limited to send it off. Calvin randomly walked in, and we went together after we were finished to Maq Foods to enjoy some samosas before catching a boda back home.
Friday, May 16, 2008
anecdotes from a time not so long ago
First substantial blog in ages.
Currently:
I'm sitting here in Kool City Cafe in Kampala. I was awakened this morning around 5AM by the revving of the motorcycle and flashing of lights of the boda waiting outside my compound's gates, alerting me that it was time to go to to the Post Office to catch the Post Bus to Kampala. Using the lighting from my cell phone, I managed to throw a handful of clothes into my borrowed Duke Energy backpack, along with my passport, loot of Ugandan shillings, and some hastily gathered toiletries. After giving Beatrice (my 2nd mother in Gulu) a quick kiss on the cheek, and a pat on Janet's pregnant belly, I ran out to greet the boda in my Carolina shirt and flapping brown gauchos. We flew fast down the dusty road at over 100 KM towards town on his jerky motorcycle. The wind caused my eyes to water, and yet I still couldn't ignore the beauty and silence of Gulu at such an early hour, interrupted only by the crows of a rooster from the stoop of Gulu University. While weaving through ducks and goats, my boda tried to have an unsuccessful conversation with me, asking me where I would buy my plot of land in Gulu when I return. Traveling this morning was much different than that of last night, when James, my interpreter, carried me on his bicycle for more than 2 miles when the moon had come out to shine its brightest, after a long day of interviews and a quick stop to enjoy a cold Fanta and Pilsner.
This morning:
The Post Bus was terrible. The roads are littered with pot holes, and the bus drives at a dangerous slant... not to mention the 3 miles of continuous road humps which made my stomach a bit nauseous, and the chickens aboard the bus a bit rowdy. I bought a skewer of grilled beef at one of the bus stops (they shove the food in through the windows), and the woman next to me kindly handed me a half of a piece of grilled corn for me to enjoy. I was also eyeing her cassava, but dared not to ask for any. At the next stop, I witnessed that same woman keel over and throw up something awful in the grass. I hope it was the cassava, and not the corn. She then switched seats with the guy in front of me so she could lean over the window, and occassionally, she would send out a lougie (sp?) reminiscent of Leonardo DiCaprio's in Titanic. Unfortunately, she miscalculated her aim twice, and as a result, I was sprayed in the face and arms. Frustration!
During the trip:
My mind drifted effortlessly to friends and family back in NC, and most of all Greg. When I wasn't thinking about those back home, I began to review the past two weeks in my head, making sure that none of my memories had been lost. It is amazing how many stories I have heard since I have been here - I have managed to meet more than one interesting character a day. Sometimes, I feel like I am a news journalists instead of a researcher simply because of the depth I am able to learn and see in the eyes and stories of these individuals I cross paths with. I really regret not being able to blog much only because there are so many things I wish I could have documented more closely, but I really can't go back now and write everything in profound detail. Following is what's most important: my encounters with only some of the people of Gulu, Uganda.
James
Tall, sleek, intelligent, curious, ever-so helpful, hardworking James. He is Beatrice's youngest brother, and agreed to become my interpreter during his days off from exams at Gulu University, where he is studying Public Administration. Currently, he is teaching at St. Mary's College at Lacor, which is a building that was renovated by Invisible Children, made specfically for secondary school-aged kids from the neighboring Lacor IDP Camp. Twice in the past, children were abducted from the boarding hostels at the school - 48 the first time, and 90 the second. He has to bike 15KM to school everyday to teach Art and Design - I traveled there with him by boda yesterday afternoon to see Invisible Children's work and progress.
The first day I met him, we drove over to Unyama IDP Camp. At one point in time, the camp housed more than 60,000 people. At the time I visited, however, people had already started moving back to their original homes because of the lift of violence and terror - 32,000 still remain in the camp. This is 2008.
When we arrived, the local chairman of the camp set off to find people who were HIV/TB positive so that I might walk around later to sit in their respective homes to interview them. While waiting, James and I sat inside one of the grass-thatch huts, all the while waving to the curious children poking their heads in, who were calling me... "Muno! Muno!".
I asked about the history of the IDP Camps (which I will explain at a later date), and asked if he had ever had a run-in with rebels of the LRA. He laughed raucously at my question. When he was...
whoops, my internet time is running out. i've gotta run! i'll finish later.
Gulu = Piny Maber
Notice: This post is extremely long. Below is the first e-mail I sent to friends and family after my arrival and first night's stay in Gulu.
Piny Maber = Good Surroundings :)
Hello All!.
I know this is long – but so much has happened!
I am writing to you now from the library at Gulu University. Surprisingly enough, I went to bed before 11PM last night, and woke up this morning to roosters crowing at 6:20AM. When I sat up in bed, I could hear women singing Luo outside of my bedroom door, mooing cows, yipping puppies, and the giddy laughter of children outside the gates of my home. I am staying with David Abang, his wife, Beatrice, their two children, Geraldine and Edgar (who are very sweet), as well as a handful of tenants who are renting rooms at their home. I have a beautiful room for myself, complete with a cushy chair, table, full-size bed, mosquito net, bookshelf, stool. Though there is electricity to be had in town and at home, the power often goes out. Last night, we had no power – all movements were done by candle light, or the glow from our cell phones. I am living very far from town – about a 15 minute boda (moped) ride away. When I look out from my gates, I can see huts reminiscent of those in the IDP camps, and acres beyond acres of grass. Moses said that I am "away from civilization" here, though I don't feel that way… there are several neighbors. It is beautiful here in Gulu.
On the way to Gulu, I enjoyed an enriching conversation with Moses (the man who escorted me from Kampala to Gulu and has become a new favorite friend), over the duration of our 8 hour long trip. At each stop, about a dozen people came over holding live chickens, roasted bananas, bags of peanuts (G-nuts, they call them here), skewers of goat's meat and beef. I told Moses that he is 10x smarter than I could ever hope to be – we talked about Obama, Clinton, US Politics, politics in Uganda, life in Gulu, life during the war in Northern Uganda, Samuel L. Jackson, etc. He knows so much more about the US than I do, and can run statistics from the election off the top of his head. I asked him about hospitals in Kampala, and he described Gulu's health care system to me. We talked about his major in Communication Studies, and what projects he is pursuing in terms of using performing arts to reach the children of Gulu to let them learn about peace-building. (Peace-building and human rights are equally as important as HIV/AIDS here, it seems. When I went out with some Makerere Univeristy students on Saturday, I met the president and one of the initiators of the Uganda chapter of Youth and Human Rights. He gave me a DVD to watch and pass around. The students here are amazing, of the few that I met, they seem to be involved in so many organizations!) Once we got into Gulu, I sat on the stoop of a barber shop while I waited for Moses to get his phone fixed, and from there, I had my first boda ride. Because I was wearing a skirt, I sat with both legs on one side, and the fear of death eroded within a split second of flying down the road. We drove out into literally, the middle of nowhere, to Moses' stepmother's house. I have tons of pictures to show you, but I'm afraid the internet here won't allow me to load any without having to wait for at least 2 hour's time. The children were adorable and sweet – each one greeted me with a handshake. One of the children, Sara, climbed the mango tree (about 12 feet up!!!), and threw down mangos, nearly missing little Joseph's bobbing head (he is 2 years old) as he ran to retrieve the fruit. I did it true-Ugandan style, and peeled the mango with my teeth – soon, our mouths and teeth were filled with mango fibers.
After playing jump rope, we rode the boda to David's house. I went on an errand to chat with some neighbors – listening to a group of 8 elders chatting in Luo, all the while watching the sunset and the roosters and chickens running around.
For dinner, we had tilapia in a soup very reminiscent to the kind Mom makes at home. (It tasted like Canh Chua!!). Beatrice, David's wife, treats the water here (1 tablet for every 20L of water), so I feel very safe eating and drinking with them. They are kind beyond words. We ate in the dark – I could not even see my hand in front of my face, but everything was so peaceful. The tea is amazing, the best I have had in my life. Later, I chatted with the women of the house – Beatrice, Geraldine, and Percy (a Gulu University student who is my "age-mate"), and Geraldine showed me her notes from Numerical Analysis and Calculus (crazy!). Next, we boiled some water and filled basins with water. Here, they bathe both in the morning and in the night. Beatrice, Geraldine, and I took our own basin outside in the wide open space of the compound, and proceeded to all strip naked. Because it was so dark outside, I could only see their silhouettes, but otherwise felt quite sheathed by the darkness. We were standing about 3 feet away from each other, cupping the water with our hands to bathe ourselves. As I looked up, I could see ten thousand stars in the sky – I had never quite seen anything as beautiful. Wrapped in towels, the three of us sat around the fire in the kitchen, and swapped stories, as I asked about life in Gulu – education, health, marriage, the differences in ethnic groups in Africa, etc. I also began to learn some Luo, and showed off the little Luganda that I know. Beatrice says that I will know more Luganda than her by the end of my stay, and that I will be fluent in Luo by the time I leave. I'm learning the languages even faster than Spanish…
It is very humbling to be here – pit latrines took a bit to get used to, as well as bathing outdoors next to a banana tree, going through an elaborate process to lock my doors, etc. Nontheless… I love it here. From what Moses had told me, people are not used to seeing an Asian (Oriental, I guess) person here – though they have seen many foreigners. Some assume that I do not speak English, since a lot of what they know about Asians comes from Asian films. I have been proposed to at least three times by now.
Victor and Sirisha: I want to start interviewing today (I have been waiting for this!), but unfortunately, David is in the hospital with a mild case of malaria. Today, Edgar (Beatrice's 12 year old son) is going to take me around town and show me the different hospitals, as well as some NGO's. I have been talking to several people about healthcare in Uganda, and access to facilities always comes up in the discussions. Please let me know if there is something specific you would like me to do – while David is in the hospital, I plan to go myself to speak to a couple of NGO's who seem willing to converse about their projects… when I go to town, I will hopefully be able to stop by and strike up a conversation. I have been keeping an intense expense report, and have recorded every single detail. When I get an opportunity, I will e-mail you my budget report. For now, I hope this e-mail is okay in terms of being my "Activity Report", as I have not yet been able to begin any interviews or work. Very sorry!
Sorry this e-mail is so long… but OH! I was able to get my baggage, so no worries there. Until next time then.
Amari Mada (I love you),
Bianca
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
gulu
I am covered in a thin film of red dust from the mangled strands of hair on my head all the way down to my newly french pedicured toes (only a dollar in Gulu!).
It has been close to 2 weeks since my delayed arrival in Entebbe Airport, though I swear I am now a registered Ugandan citizen, and that I have been living here for months. Each memory is precious, because of its novelty, and my worst fear is that my memories will slowly begin to slip through the crevices of my brain. I started this blog with the profound purpose of documenting my time in Uganda, and yet I find I don’t have the time. Power is a precious commodity – I’ve only had access to it to use my computer 3 days out of the 2 weeks I have been in Uganda.
My mind is overflowing with the stories I have heard since I have been here. My experiences here have certainly changed my outlook on life, and progress is rapidly being made in terms of my TB/HIV Fellowship with GlobeMed.
I am mentally and physically exhausted, and don’t have the time now to go back and trace my footsteps from Charlotte-Douglas Airport to Gulu. I’ve been invited to Christ Church to join the choir practice, and play the piano for them as they rehearse for Sunday’s worship. From 8AM – 4PM, I spent the day traveling all across Gulu (weaving through trees, and grassy unmarked fields), and interviewed 7 TB positive patients. The process is tiresome, and I am ready to go back home to some severely sweet African tea, portion of posho, beans, and hopefully, tilapia.
I need to start walking to the church now to make it on time, but hopefully, I’ll be back soon to give a more proper update.
Amari Mada. (I love you).
It has been close to 2 weeks since my delayed arrival in Entebbe Airport, though I swear I am now a registered Ugandan citizen, and that I have been living here for months. Each memory is precious, because of its novelty, and my worst fear is that my memories will slowly begin to slip through the crevices of my brain. I started this blog with the profound purpose of documenting my time in Uganda, and yet I find I don’t have the time. Power is a precious commodity – I’ve only had access to it to use my computer 3 days out of the 2 weeks I have been in Uganda.
My mind is overflowing with the stories I have heard since I have been here. My experiences here have certainly changed my outlook on life, and progress is rapidly being made in terms of my TB/HIV Fellowship with GlobeMed.
I am mentally and physically exhausted, and don’t have the time now to go back and trace my footsteps from Charlotte-Douglas Airport to Gulu. I’ve been invited to Christ Church to join the choir practice, and play the piano for them as they rehearse for Sunday’s worship. From 8AM – 4PM, I spent the day traveling all across Gulu (weaving through trees, and grassy unmarked fields), and interviewed 7 TB positive patients. The process is tiresome, and I am ready to go back home to some severely sweet African tea, portion of posho, beans, and hopefully, tilapia.
I need to start walking to the church now to make it on time, but hopefully, I’ll be back soon to give a more proper update.
Amari Mada. (I love you).
Friday, May 2, 2008
greetings, from dubai
Of course, I will update later - I've been unconsciously blogging in my head this entire trip so far, but haven't had a chance yet to type everything down. People are beginning to line up to board for my flight to Entebbe. Still, I am amazed that I have access to free Wifi here in Dubai - even Amsterdam or NYC didn't offer such a luxury.
Things have certainly been a whirlwind, and I've learned a lot in just the flight portion of my trip. The basics so far:
Thursday:
Flight from Charlotte-Douglas to Newark Intl in NJ.
Delayed in Newark for about an hour and a half.
Friday: Arrived in Amsterdam, missed my connecting flight to Entebbe by about 20 minutes. 7 hour layover in Amsterdam, and then connecting flight to Dubai.
Now: In Dubai, waiting to board my flight to Entebbe. I'm expected to arrive at 2:45 PM on Saturday, May 3.
Things have certainly been a whirlwind, and I've learned a lot in just the flight portion of my trip. The basics so far:
Thursday:
Flight from Charlotte-Douglas to Newark Intl in NJ.
Delayed in Newark for about an hour and a half.
Friday: Arrived in Amsterdam, missed my connecting flight to Entebbe by about 20 minutes. 7 hour layover in Amsterdam, and then connecting flight to Dubai.
Now: In Dubai, waiting to board my flight to Entebbe. I'm expected to arrive at 2:45 PM on Saturday, May 3.
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